Kenya Birds - Trip Report August 2001

Following the links above will take you to trip lists for each area. If you are interested in our overall tally for the visit go here.

Twice in one year!

For the past 6 years we've visited Kenya early in the year (January or February). This has given us an opportunity to see the birds that migrate south to escape from the winter in the northern hemisphere. We have wanted to visit Kenya during the migration for some time and so this year we went out in early January and then decided to go for broke (almost literally) and make a return trip in August. We were hoping to see and photograph some of the vultures that congregate during the mass move of wildebeest and zebra through the Mara. We were also hoping that Peter Nyali (our guide on 2 previous visits) would be available, he's a fellow enthusiastic amateur birder and it was certainly a welcome sight and good omen to spot him waiting by the Landcruiser at Jomo Kenyatta airport.

Tsavo West

One of the most striking features of Tsavo this trip was the number of shrikes that we saw and the amazing colour that they sported. We've been used to seeing Rosy-patched Bush-shrikes with their very familiar rose-coloured throat patches but the breeding pairs at Tsavo were incredible. The normally pinky-tan back colouring was a rich, almost purple, colour. In fact shrikes (in their various forms) seemed to be everywhere with White-crested Helmet-shrikes very much in evidence along with the more usual Northern White-crowned Shrike, Long-tailed Fiscal, Taita Fiscal, Brubru, Black-crowned Tchagra, Three-streaked Tchagra, Grey-headed Bush-shrike, Slate-coloured Boubou and Pringle's Puffback. We were also happy to see Woolly-necked Stork once again at the lodge waterhole (our first sighting of this particular bird was at Kilaguni Lodge in January 2001). Our first sighting of a juvenile Black-chested Snake Eagle was to be the first of many opportunities for observing this beautiful raptor. In fact they became quite commonplace as we travelled across the country.

This also proved to be an excellent time for seeing Golden-breasted Starling (or Yellow-bellied Starlings as locals call them). They were present in large numbers and in very good colour, although they were (as ever) very difficult to photograph. Unlike most of the rest of the family these birds are shy and wary - and they are consequently quite difficult to get close to.

Amboseli

As ever, Amboseli provided us with a wealth of waterbirds and waders. Along with Little Grebe, Great White and Pink-backed Pelican, Great and Long-tailed Cormorant, African Darter, Black-crowned Night Heron and numerous other storks, herons, egrets and ibises there were Fulvous and White-faced Whistling Duck, Spur-winged Goose, Knob-billed Duck, Cape, Red-billed and Hottentot Teal along with Southern Pochard (a first for us). There was also an array of plovers and sandpipers.

The presence of so many birds also gave us one of those magical moments that make you feel privileged to be there. We were out very early in the morning in one of the swamps. There was no one else near and we saw a disturbance in the reeds. Some of the smaller birds were being flushed from cover by something. We thought at first it was a snake or lizard creating panic but then we saw a female Serval giving a hunting lesson to 3 cubs. Servals feed largely on birds which they flush and then catch in mid-air as they fly up. This is a fascinating piece of paw-eye co-ordination to watch and we've been lucky enough to see Serval hunting on previous visits. However this time the cubs were still at the "isn't this great fun" stage of development. They were splashing a lot and making a good deal of noise .... and generally having a great time .... and were in more danger of drowning themselves than of catching anything!

Naro Moru

Naro Moru proved to be a mix of the very frustrating (Paul went for a walk while I was having a nap and saw African Black Duck) and the wonderful (Narina Trogon at very close quarters - seen by both of us). The Naro Moru River Lodge has extensive grounds with large tracts of woodland and is an excellent place to see Giant Kingfisher and Hartlaub's Turaco. The latter species can occasionally be seen standing on the river bank drinking. It is also home to a large number of highland species some of which, like the Yellow-whiskered Greenbul, Slaty-Eyed Flycatcher, Bronze Mannikin and the Tacazze Sunbird are easy to spot. There are also species such as the White-headed Wood-hoopoe, Montane White-eye and Narina Trogon which are always a welcome sight if you're lucky enough to see them.

This visit we decided to take advantage of the fact that the Lodge is used as a base for climbing Mt Kenya and arranged for a visit to the Mt Kenya National Park. Things tend not to be straightforward in Kenya; we thought we'd been very clear that we wanted a gentle drive through the park to do some bird watching. Alarm bells started sounding when we discovered that our guide wouldn't be coming with us, instead we appeared to be booked with a qualified mountaineer! We managed to get a message passed on, ahead of our arrival, to explain that we don't do mountains. We are extremely good at sitting in comfort birding, we are not cut out for strenuous hikes at high altitude! Undeterred by our protestations of "exercise allergy" our guide (who was actually very good and was knowledgeable about the local birdlife) periodically suggested that "maybe now we should go for a walk, nothing strenuous, just a gentle stroll". However our idea of a "gentle stroll" never has been 10km up a 2 in 1 slope ....I think we were a disappointment to him! It was unfortunate that the weather turned very wet during our visit. It rained heavily for several hours which cut the numbers of birds we were able to see. However we did get a good look at Hunter's Cisticola, Alpine Chat and one of the speciality birds of the area the Abyssinian Ground Thrush

Samburu

From the cool, wet highlands we descended to Samburu. This is always an interesting experience as you move from the rich, cool, green of Mt Kenya or the Aberdares into the harsh, baked, almost desert landscape of Samburu. But it's a sight and a place that we really love. Despite the fact that the rains had failed in this region leaving it in the grip of drought, the Uaso Nyiro River was in full flow. It is fed from a number of highland sources including the Naro Moru River which had been high when we had seen it. This meant that the bird and animal life had been less affected by the failure of the rains than would otherwise have been the case.

One of our aims this trip was to get a photograph of Donaldson-Smith's Sparrow-Weaver to add to the site (... and we actually did!). Samburu is just about at the southern extreme of its range and so it's a bird we've only ever seen here. Taking a guided bird-walk is something we always sign up for at the various lodges we stay in. At Samburu we went out for a gentle morning stroll - well that was the plan! Some of the local guides seem to take it very personally when the birdlife refuses to co-operate and it stays hidden. At Samburu things were very quiet when we set out to meander around the grounds .... so James (the lodge guide) decided to walk us where no Harris has walked before. We started out at a gentle pace under the trees along the river, detoured through the bush, past a village, through 2 camp sites, along some animal tracks and then back (via more desert, brush and bemused locals). Fortunately experience has taught us that, when the lodge advises you wear stout shoes on the bird walks, you should always take note. The highlight of the walk was a close encounter with an African Harrier-Hawk ..... about 10 yards from our room!

Lake Baringo

There was a time when Baringo was the place we visited for rest and relaxation after the hectic pace of early morning game drives. However those times are gone! Baringo is an excellent place for birders and, despite the fact that the area appears to be mostly barren rock and semi-desert, it is home to a remarkable range of waders and other waterbirds. In the shadow of the cliffs there is a bowl which fills during the rains and becomes a very large seasonal pool. The water remains long enough for many species of birds to nest and raise their brood. The water hole is hidden from the road and so casual passers-by are unlikely to notice it (which makes it a quiet haven for the serious birder). This year we saw the Green-backed Heron in full breeding colour (complete with very bright red legs) along with beautifully marked Little Weavers, Red-headed Weavers and a family of Woolly-necked Storks.

We were lucky to meet up with a freelance guide Benson (Ben) Mugambi who was spending a short spell as the resident birder at Lake Baringo Club. He had been in the area for a few weeks and had seen some of the more unusual and elusive species. Among the birds he had tracked down was the Little Bittern and he was determined that we wouldn't leave without getting a look. There was a point during the 5 days at Baringo where we did wonder if we were completely insane. For me this point came when I was at the top of a cliff (I hate heights) having scaled it in the heat of the day (I hate strenuous exercise) to get a better view of the cliff pool that was home to the Bitterns. They were nowhere to be seen! In fact it was only on our last afternoon when Nyali took us back to the cliffs in the heat of the afternoon that we saw not only the Little Bittern but also the Dwarf Bittern! That afternoon also gave us a very close look at a Slender-tailed Nightjar in broad daylight.

August is a good time to visit Baringo as the weavers are in full colour. This meant seeing Little Weaver, Jackson's Golden-backed Weaver, Vitelline Masked Weaver, Northern Masked Weaver, Black-headed Weaver and Red-headed Weaver in full breeding plumage. There were also Yellow-crowned Bishop and Northern Red Bishop nesting in the lake margins. For us it was also interesting as we are used to seeing Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters taking insects at the lake edge but in August it's the Madagascar Bee-eater that you get in this area (it is present until September while the Blue-cheeked doesn't appear until October).

Lake Nakuru

We used Lake Nakuru as a break in the long journey from Baringo in the North to the Maasai Mara in the South. Although we were only there for a short time we did get to see (and photograph) some of the area's specials including Hildebrandt's Francolin. It is always worth a visit for the sight of thousands of Flamingos on the shoreline and also for the large flocks of Pelicans using the ridges to gain height before spiralling upwards on thermals.

Maasai Mara

And so to the Mara where we spent our final 4 nights. Although people tend to think of the Mara in terms of vast plains and huge herds of Wildebeest it is also has extensive swamps which are home to a vast array of waterbirds. This makes it a great place for birders and going to the Mara in August guarantees you one thing above all else, Vultures! The huge herds of zebra and wildebeest bring with them a large number of carnivores and these provide food for the Vultures in the form of left-overs. And it's not just the lion and hyena kills that attract the carrion eaters. The Mara River is a formidable obstacle for the wildebeest to cross and large numbers don't make it. At bends in the river huge numbers of Hooded, White-backed, Rüppell's and Lappet-faced Vultures congregate alongside Marabou Storks to feast on the carcasses that get trapped on the rocks and the shore. The numbers are staggering ... so, it has to be said, is the smell!

Away from the vultures the river also provides tracts of riverine woodland where you can see one of the less common of the starlings, the Violet-backed Starling (also known as the Plum-coloured Starling) and one of the Mara specials - the Bare-faced Go-away-bird. It's also a good place to see Arrow-marked Babbler and White-browed Robin-Chat - however we have to confess to missing the best photo opportunity for these latter 2 birds that we've ever had. The lodge we stayed in gave us a free "bush breakfast" as a thank you for our long stay and for making repeat visits. This took us by surprise and we'd already packed up our camera gear at the end of our morning drive so we left the bags locked in the van. Of course birds came out from every bush, tree and stump and posed in front of us showing their plumage from all angles .... and all we could do was watch (and sip ice cold champagne ..... so it wasn't all that bad!).

The swamps are a fascinating area of the Mara which are home to large flocks of Fulvous and White-faced Whistling Ducks along with Knob-billed Ducks and Spur-winged Geese. They are also an excellent place to see Saddle-billed Storks. We spent a considerable amount of time cruising around the edge of the swamps and stopping for ages just to watch for anything unusual.

We couldn't really do a trip report without mentioning one of Africa's most amazing wildlife spectacles, the Mara migration. There is something unreal and unearthly about travelling for mile after mile through a single herd of Wildebeest. On our way out of the Mara we went for 45 minutes and a distance of around 40km through a continuous herd of the animals. They stretched as far as the horizon in all directions - it was a truly amazing experience and one that we will treasure.

Time to Go Home

And so back to the UK ..... with fingers crossed for some new photos for our pages!

Trip Report August 2001

Itinerary