Kenya Birds - ndara

Ndara Ranch is about 2 km from the Nairobi Mombasa road, about 17 km from Voi in the direction of Mombasa, looking onto the Sagalla Hills. It is basically a cattle ranch but has a lodge with accommodation in small bungalows. There is a pretty good restaurant, cold beers and sodas, and a small very clean swimming pool. The proprietors and staff are friendly and welcoming. However as a keen birder the thing that attracts me most to Ndara is the excellent bird watching. It is situated on the edge of Tsavo East National Park but is not restricted by Park Rules, so one can take lovely walks through the bush where a wide variety of birds can be seen.

Even a lazy sojourn by the pool or a gentle stroll around the garden yields a wonderful number of birds. Ndara must be one of the easiest places in Kenya to observe Hunter's Sunbird. On occasion, up to 10 males can be seen flitting on the Euphorbia hedge like so many jewels. Better than Aladdin's cave.

White-crested Helmet-shrikes click their way around the trees and Golden-breasted Starlings are regular visitors. Other species occurring in and around the garden include White-bellied Go-away Bird, Black-throated Barbet, Red-rumped and Lesser Striped Swallows, Spotted Morning Thrush, Bare-eyed Thrush, Chin-spot Batis, Brubru, Grey-headed Bush-shrike, Black-headed Oriole, Black-bellied Sunbird and Red-headed Weaver.

The duetting of the Slate-coloured Boubou constantly echoes from under the surrounding bushes which during migration seasons are thronged by birds. Plenty of warblers from Europe and Asia to challenge identification skills, not to mention Sprossers, Nightingales and Irania if you are lucky. Eurasian, Blue-cheeked and Somali Bee-eaters also pass through at varying times and there is often a profusion of Little Bee-eaters drinking at the pool with swallows and swifts in the later afternoon. A sprinkler used during a dry season morning will attract a regular babble of avian bathers. Overhead there are always raptors on careful watch and a Bateleur will regularly drop by to see if a tasty snack lurks unawares.

Other Afrotropical species in the bush-land include Black-and-white Cuckoo, Abyssinian Scimitarbill, Red-fronted Warbler, Rosy-patched Bush-shrike, Green-winged Pytilia, Blue-capped Cordon-bleu, Somali Golden-breasted Bunting and, at the right time of year (around May), if you get really lucky, Steel-blue Whydah, making Ndara a place where (with the exception of Broad-tailed Paradise) the whole range of whydahs can be seen. Then there are such surprise visitors such as the Somali race lorti of Lilac-breasted Roller - perhaps things got too hot at home.

About 150 species are regularly seen at Ndara. A concentrated study of the area over a longer period than I am ever able to manage would probably double that number. The management are always happy to hear of new birds to add to the list.

Staying There

Kenya resident rates of accommodation are very reasonable; at the time of writing, KSh1,800 for a double room half-board. There are other varying rates to suit different pockets, including 'bed only' at Ksh600 per person. There is also a camp site. A stop-over at Ndara on a trip to Mombasa makes a welcome break from the perils of the dreadful road, and even a special trip is well worthwhile. Ndara can be contacted on 0147-330463/30207 or Box 3 Voi. Pick-up, transfers and game drives can also be arranged from the Lodge.
Ndara Ranch